About Surfing Waves
Surfing waves, according to the fluid dynamics are wind-generated surface waves that develop on the free surface of oceans, seas or lakes. Some of these waves in the oceans often cover thousands of miles before reaching land. Read on to know all about surfing waves on this page.
Wind surfing waves can range in size from small ripples to big waves. Several factors can influence the formation of these surf waves – the wind speed, area of the open water, and the time duration of the wind plus the water depth. All of these factors work together to determine the size of surfing waves. The larger are each of these variables, the bigger are the waves for surfing. The wind surfing waves are characterized by their height, wavelength, the time period and the direction of the waves.
When wind blows constantly over a large area of open water, a kind of waves surfing known as Swell is produced. Its size is determined by the power of the wind and the time duration. These waves for surfing are larger and more widespread on coastlines exposed to vast expanses of ocean crossed by deep low pressure systems. The shape of the surfing waves are influenced by the topography of the seabed directly below the breaking wave. Since the underwater topography of one place is not similar to any other, each of these wind surfing waves is different. During summer, heavy swells are developed when cyclones form in the tropics, while in winter, heavy swells get formed in the mid-latitudes, with the north and south polar fronts shifting toward the Equator. These swells or waves for surfing arrive in a rhythm with each lasting for a couple of days. There is often a gap of few days between each swell.
Big waves surfing involve waves which are at least 20 feet and are challenged by only the experienced surfers on surf boards known as "guns" or "rhino chasers". Depending upon the size of the wave as well as the skill used by the surfer, the sizes of the board may vary. A big and longer board may allows the rider to move fast enough to catch and surf waves, offering him more stability, but has the disadvantage of allowing limited maneuverability and surfing speed.